Don Mellor's Climbing in the Adirondacks, published by the ADK, has been the definitive guidebook to the region for decades. Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas are currently working on a comprehensive new rock guide that will be impressive- AdirondackRock.com

While there are thousands of climbs in the Adirondacks, there are a handful of routes and crags that stand out as our guides' favorites:

Slab city, Chapel Pond

Chapel Pond Slab (II, 5.5- 5.7, 700') via the Regular Cave Route (5.6), Empress (5.6) Greensleeves (5.6) and Thanksgiving (5.7 r/x) is the region's most accessible easy-moderate multi-pitch climbing with long pitches of friction and short headwalls through cracks and chimneys. Descent involves some hiking, down climbing and rappeling.

 

Jesse, Overture (II 5.8), Washbowl Clif

The Washbowl Cliff (II, 5.5- 5.12, 400') is high and dry on the south-facing side of Chapel Pond. A steep approach and high exposure make for spectacular position. The Weissner Route (5.5) is the classic introductory climb, but the Partition (5.8+) dihedral may just be the best corner in the East. For the climber used to the sharp end of the rope, Hesitation (5.7+) is a moderate directissima on varied terrain while Flashdance (5.9+) or Prelude (5.8+) lead to the final arete of Overture (5.8) and, according to Mellor- 'the most exposed pitch in Keene Valley.

The Beer Walls (I, 5.4-5.12, 150') in Chapel Pond Canyon hosts the region's most popular single-pitch climbs. With great crack routes like Labbattami (5.6), Frosted Mug (5.9), Tequila Mockingbird (5.10) and Rockaholic (5.8), the cliff's inspiration is obvious, but the Lower Tier hosts equally nice face climbs with different inspirations- Afternoon Delight (5.5), Sword (5.6), Pegasus (5.7), Turbocharge (5.9+) and Blacksmith (5.10) are some of the best.

The Spider's Web (5.8-5.13, 200') sits at the end of the Lower Washbowls. It is an impressive overhanging wall laced with cracks of all sizes and severity, perhaps the best conecntration of high quality crack climbing in the East.

Jeremy cracks up at the Spider's Web

Brooks feeling Quadrophenia (II 5.7 )

Hurricane Cliff (II, 5.4-5.10, 450') is best known for the classic Quadrophenia (II 5.7+) and it's superb position and varied climbing, but lesser known variations of Xenolith (5.8), the Old Route (5.4) and Spring Equinox (5.8) comprise another high-quality route.

Pitchoff Chimney Cliff (II,5.4-5.11, 250') is the locals's crag, just off the road above Cascade Lake and freshened by regular breezes through the pass. While several quality 5.10's abound (Roaches on the Wall, Coffee Achievers, Star Sailor, Brright Star...) exposed link-ups of moderate cracks are the most popular routes. Combinations of the Chimney Route (5.6), Pete's Farewell (5.7), the El (5.8) and PF Flyers (5.10) make several short but intense multi-pitch classics.

Janey laybacks Pete's Farewell (5.7)

Moss Cliff (II-III, 5.9-5.11, 400') is definitely a misnomer, because the cliff is actually big, steep and clean- Moss' best routes are hard cracks. Hard Times (II 5.9+), Touch Of Class (5.9+), Aerie (5.10-) and Falconer (5.10) are the standards and some of the region's best crack routes.

Gamesmanship (II 5.8 ), Poke-O-Moonshine

Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain (I-III, 5.6-5.12, 600') has two faces and runs combined for over a half-mile in length, so there are plenty of routes. A few are must-do classics: Gamesmanship (II+ 5.8) is the cliff's most popular objective with a crux right off the ground and varied crack climbing above. Fastest Gun (III 5.10) is the harder standard and is unquestionably one of the best routes in the Adirondacks.

Wallface Mountain (II-IV, 5.3- 5.12, 900') is home to the region's biggest routes and a must-do objective for any backcountry enthusiast. The Diagonal (III 5.8) is THE classic. Harder variations on the chimneys of No Man's A Pilot (II 5.10) and the more sustained Lewis Elijah (III 5.9) make it an even more impressive route. For a big-wall experience- Mental Blocks (III 5.8 A2) requires all the aid climbing tricks.

900' above the deck, Adam tops out on The Diagonal (III 5.8), Wallface Mt.

Gothics, South Face (II, 5.5 or 5.10, 600' or 900') is the best rock in the mountains, and the Direct route is the best face climbing in the High Peaks in a true wilderness setting.

Emilie, South Face of Gothics (II 5.10)

Big Slide Mountain (II, 5.7-5.9, 350') Freudian Slip (5.9) is high-quality face climbing, and the setting high above the John's Brook Valley can't be beat.

Immaculate face climbing, Big Slide

Roger's Rock (II, 5.5-5.9, 500') Paddle, climb, swim. Little Finger (5.5) is a summertime favorite.