Bill headed direct for a Mid-Life Crisis (WI 5 )

Don Mellor recently updated the winter guidebook to the region with Blue Lines: An Adirondack Ice Climber's Guide, available at the Mountaineer.

Winter climbing in the Adirondacks is perhaps the region's most reliable asset. Dependably rugged winter conditions create numerous waterfalls and even more mixed terrain, much of it easily accessible from the road. While there is lots of terrain, these are some of our favorite winter climbs.

Chapel Pond Slab (II, WI 2-3, 700') is a winter standard too. While technically not steep, it's still 700' of ice climbing- and then you have to get down (and climb some more along the way...)

Dom cruising on Chouinard's Gully (NEI 3)

Chouinard's Gully (NEI 3, 400') and Crystal Ice Tower (NEI 4, 250') converge and join White Line Fever (NEI 4-, 200') and Tahawus (NEI 3+, 250') to make an excellent thousand-foot link-up with lots of mileage on easy to moderate terrain. Add in Roaring Brook Falls (NEI 3, 400') and it's a huge day!

Power Play (NEI 4+/5+, 225') , Lilith (NEI 4, 180'), Rhiannon (NEI 4+,180') and Big Brother (NEI 5-5+, 200') are center stage at Chapel Pond and the place to break into longer pitches, steeper ice and higher exposure. Numerous routes and variations are neaby at the Pond.

Jesse, Leash Free or Die (M7), Chapel Pond

Chapel Pond Canyon and Cascade Pass are the place for single-pitch and top-rope ice and mixed climbing. With different aspects and elevations, Cascade is dependably cold but often sunny, wheras Chapel Pond is always shaded but better protected. There are easily accessible climbs from 20'- 200', NEI 2 to 5, M2-M7.

Matt gets some at Lock Ness

 

 

Knob Lock Mountain and Lock Ness are somewhat secret stashes of ice and mixed routes in Hurricane Pass, protected by a stream crossing and long uphill hike in deep snow. But a Magic Line (NEI 4+, 170') does exist, sherpas like the Baksheesh (NEI 4, 175') and other Unexpected Pleasures (NEI 4, 200') await.

Pitchoff North Face (NEI 3-5, 100-400') is reliably cold and wet, making the long and moderate ice climbs reliably fat and thick. The shaded aspect can be cold in mid-winter, but maintains good plastic ice well into spring.

Nick, Tannin Bomb (NEI 5-, 200')

Wilmington Notch is well known for Multiplication Gully (NEI 3+, 225') but has some hidden gems too at Whiteface Mountain and Wilmington Quarry.

Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain (NEI 2-5+, 600')
has an equally high concentration of harder multi-pitch ice and mixed routes as summer rock routes. Positive Thinking (NEI 5-, 400') gets all the press for good reason, but the Italian Traverse to Neurosis (5.7, NEI 4+, 500') is an equally fine mixed route. The Waterfall (NEI 4-5+) is unrelentingly steep for a long pitch, Discord (NEI4, 200') is often mixed, and in the right conditions, some of the best routes appear on the 'big wall' section.

 

 

Dan tops the Trap Dyke (II WI 2) waterfall

Avalanche Pass is five-mile ski tour or snowshoe (each way) and is best known for access to Mt. Colden's Trap Dyke (II, NEI 2, 2000'). But for an experienced ice climber, Avalanche Mountain Gully (NEI 4-, 500') is the more technical objective. It is a spectacular setting, and some of the region's most severe single-pitch routes drip from the rock walls along the lake.