Bob on the Throne, Little Switzerland, Alaska

Alpine and backcountry climbs with Cloudsplitter are unique opportunities for climbers to put traditional skills on rock and ice to use on bigger mountains and more exotic terrain.

Favoring low-ratios, technical climbing objectives and personal service, expeditions are selectively offered to include preparation and training in the Adirondacks to ensure a rewarding experience.

 

 

In 2011, Cloudsplitter has several alpine climbing opportunities for our guests:

 

Alpine snow & ice climbing and spring skiing on Mt. Washington

This year we're excited to offer a new option for our guests who just aren't ready to put away the tools, crampons and skis yet. New Hampshire's Mt. Washington is legendary for classic alpine snow & ice climbing in Huntington's Ravine, and fabled spring skiing in Tuckerman's Ravine. Huntington's hosts a variety of long gullies and mixed rock buttresses, all of which can be climbed en route to the 6288' summit for a full-value alpine day- especially now that the days are warmer and longer. Tuckerman's deep basin holds snow well into May. While most people follow the crowds into the ravine, Cloudsplitter guides will make the most of the terrain and conditions, seeking out the best snow and/or touring above and beyond into less-crowded gullies in Oakes Gulf, Amonoosuc Ravine, the Great Gulf and even ski-mountaineering in Huntington's Ravine. For those interested in a less exposed or a full backcountry overnight experience, the Gulf of Slides is a very approachable venue and has nice protected camping options in the basin. Moderate slide paths allow skiers to progressively work into steeper terrain, or more ambitious skiers can bust a move up and over into adjacent ravines for a full-value tour. Weekend dates have already started to fill, and of course weekdays are always less crowded and offer better availability. Contact us to check availability or to make a reservation. (To help us make the most of your alpine experience, our alpine/backcountry rates apply.)

Alpine Climbing in the Tetons: The Grand Teton and beyond

In July 2011, Jesse is pleased to be working as a guest guide for renowned Exum Mountain Guides, one of America's oldest and most prestigious mountain guide services. (Exum recently opened up guest guiding opportunities for AMGA Certified Alpine Guides- yet another benefit to Cloudsplitter's pursuit of  professional certification.) The Tetons are a legendary alpine arena, with an imposing relief above the Jackson Hole valley that is quite impressive, but also surprisingly accessible. If the North Cascades (WA) are the country's best glaciated alpine venue (see below), then the ragged ridges of the Tetons are the country's best alpine rock venue, favoring efficient movement over technical and exposed alpine rock and a dry intercontinental climate. The Grand Teton (13,770') is the obvious trophy for most, and a feather in the cap for alpinists of all abilities and aspiration. But there is so much more, and the compact nature of the range allows for some spectacular traverses and link-ups of other Teton summits like the Middle Teton, the summits of the Cloudveil Traverse, Teewinot, Mt. Owen and the more remote Mt. Moran. For the alpine cragger, the canyons en route offer classic multi-pitch rock routes for all abilities. If you can climb multi-pitch rock in the Adirondacks, you'll fare quite well in the Tetons. Programs are booked privately through Exum and subject to their policies and procedures. Due to advance bookings, availability is already somewhat limited in July, so contact us to learn more about your options for alpine rock adventures with Jesse in the Tetons this summer.

Pika glacier basecamp

If you like the wilderness and traditional climbing in the Adirondacks and want to step it up to Alaska size terrain- you'll love Little Switzerland. We first climbed and skied in the area in the spring of 2000, and have since returned several times over the years for personal and guided climbing and skiing expeditions. While many operators offer high-ratio 'mountaineering seminars' in Little Switzerland, Cloudsplitter focuses our trips there exclusively on low-ratio private guiding on technical rock and snow routes, available by reservation only.

The Pika Glacier (5600 ft), aka ‘Little Switzerland’ in the central Alaska Range is located at the head of a group of small peaks and glaciers that feed into the lower Kahiltna Glacier, approximately 35 miles south of Denali (aka ‘Mt. McKinley’) and Sultana (aka ‘Mt. Foraker’).

Cloud 'splitter' alpine cracks!

The former bush town of Talkeetna, about a two hour’s drive from Anchorage, is the launching point for ski-equipped planes that ferry climbers, skiers and sightseers into the Alaska Range. While most alpinists are headed for Denali’s West Buttress and a few are headed for classics in the Ruth Gorge and Kahiltna Glacier, the glacier landing site in Little Switzerland provides some of the most accessible and enjoyable alpine rock climbing and ski touring in the Range. The glacier flight alone is a spectacular experience and worth the trip.

The Pika Glacier is a relatively intimate setting compared to the higher peaks, with a diversity of 100 to 2500’ rock routes as well as a few glacier/snow routes and short approaches from basecamp. The technical nature of the climbing requires small teams of 2-3 climbers and a minimum of experience on multi-pitch rock. These are ideal objectives for experienced rock and/or ice climbers aspiring to more alpine endeavors in one of the world’s greatest ranges.

Bill rides the Dragonspine, Little Switzerland, Alaska

While any visitors to the Alaska Range should bring an open mind for weather delays and a commitment to a remote wilderness expedition experience, a 6-10 day trip that includes the glacier flight, a well-appointed basecamp, ski touring or snowshoe glacier travel, crevasse rescue training, alpine cragging, and a shot at any of the many quality moderate rock routes in the grade III, 5.5- 5.9 range - is the wilderness alpine climbing trip of a lifetime!

The Trolls, Pika Glacier

some OBJECTIVES:

The Munchkin- (II, 5.2), West side crag (II, 5.7- 5.9)
The Throne- Lost Marsupial (III 5.8), East Ridge (III 5.9)
North Troll – S Ridge (III 5.7)
Middle Troll – S. Face (III 5.8)
South Troll – S. Face (IV-, 5.9)
Royal Tower- E. Ridge (IV, 5.8), Gargoyle Buttress (IV, 5.10a), The Jester (II var. 5.10) more
Hobbit King- Hobbit Arete (III-, 5.7)
Hobbit’s Footstool – E. Ridge (II, 5.8), W. Ridge (III, 5.9), cragging on cracks
Practice Wall- 50-200’, 5.4- 5.8
Dragonspine- First buttress (III, 5.6-5.7)

Splitter cracks on the Middle Troll, AK

Bill gets dramatic, Alaska

PRIVATE and SEMI-PRIVATE GUIDING-ALPINE ROCK
Offered in June (19.5 hrs daylight!) and making full use of low-ratios to safely cover more technical terrain, private guiding can be arranged in Little Switzerland for a 6-10 day trip and is tailored to the individual’s experience and ambitions and focused on climbing alpine granite. A day of glacier and crevasse skills training or review is mandatory, but once covered, allows the remainder of the trip to be focused on any of several of the classic rock routes on the Throne, the Trolls, the Hobbit King, the Dragonspine and the Royal Tower. There are also options for mixed snow & rock routes in inclement weather, snowshoe or ski-touring, or simply soaking in the ambience from basecamp. Standard guiding rates apply, plus travel expenses,glacier flight, and food/logistics. Contact us for more specific information.

 

A Talkeetna Air Taxi DeHavilland 'Beaver'

LOGISTICS
Flying into Alaska’s bush is an intensely rewarding but slightly committing experience, climbers should ‘pad’ their schedule with 2-3 days to allow for weather delays at each end and purchase changeable tickets.

Guides will provide all on-mountain meals, group cooking, group camping and technical gear. Thanks to the use of the ski-plane, basecamp will include a pyramid shaped cooking/ socializing shelter and quality backcountry fare. (If communications with friends/family/business are a personal necessity, the pass to Hidden Glacier can be climbed to allow occasional cell-phone service, and for guaranteed access satellite phones can easily be rented in Anchorage or the web.)

Climbers will provide their own tents, sleeping bags/pads, personal clothing and personal climbing gear. A gear list is available upon request.

Climbers will coordinate their own flights to/from Anchorage ( and if necessary) lodging in Anchorage upon arrival/departure. Guides will arrange van shuttle to & from Anchorage-Talkeetna and glacier flights with TAT.

Jesse on the Throne, Little Swiss, AK