The Adirondacks: training ground for the Karakoram!
Last month my friend Janet Bergman offered me a spot on her summer 2011 expedition to climb an unclimbed peak (Peak 6135) in the Indian Karakoram. With little hesitation, I agreed to join this seven week adventure and proceeded to dust off my passport and reschedule my summer. I'm really excited about this amazing opportunity and am enjoying training (rock climbing, hiking, biking, and until last week, skiing) here in the Adirondacks before leaving on July 2nd. In addition to myself and Janet we will be joined by Kirsten Kremer making this a unique all ladies team. Along with Janet and Kirsten's hard work in putting this trip together (because I joined this team last minute after Zoe Hart was unable to go, I didn't do much to help), we are the thankful recipients of a Polartec Challenge Grant. Additional support and thanks to Outdoor Research, Sterling Rope Company, Mountain Hardwear, and Petzl. Below is an excerpt and map from our grant proposal describing our destination and objective:
"This expedition will explore the alpine rock climbing potential in the Indian Karakoram.
The Pakistani Karakoram, only miles away, boasts some of the best alpine rock climbing on the planet. Teams have traveled there for decades for its fabled granite faces and spires, succeeding in establishing some of the most aesthetic lines that exist.
The Indian Karakoram, specifically Saser Muztagh, promises similar terrain—but the history of Kashmir and, until recently, difficult road access, has left these mountains, especially the sub-7,000 m peaks, relatively unexplored.
The mountain we propose to climb is an unnamed, unclimbed 6,135 meter peak in the Saser Muztagh. Previous expeditions have visited this area to attempt the 7,000 meter peaks (Plateau Peak, Saser Kangri I, II, III). This beautiful rock face, though visible from the approach to many of the larger mountains, has never been attempted, to our knowledge.
We plan to travel there in summer of 2011 to attempt one or more of several beautiful lines on the south facing aspect, in alpine style. We will preferably climb Option 1 in the attached photo, climbing the entire rock face and on to the summit in one light, fast, free push. We will leave no ropes fixed, and plan to descend via the shoulder in the right side of the photo back to base camp."
In the meantime, I'm taking advantage of the slower part of the season by getting out to climb and hike before lush summer foliage obscures the view of all the great rock we have here in the Adirondacks!