5 Star Grade 3s: classic multi-pitch ice routes
Obviously we climb the classic routes around here...a lot. I've climbed Roaring Brook Falls and Chouinard's each over 50 times (at least...) A popular lunchtime or apres-work aerobic alpine workout for local climbers here is to solo the two in under an hour, car-to-car. That is the beauty of living here and having this kind of terrain right in our backyard...you can get very comfortable on it- and in turn- are better prepared to help others enjoy the experience too.
But I understand that not everyone lives here- and most people are psyched just to squeeze in a few visits each season, and have their own opportunity to enjoy the climbing here on their terms. The nice thing about ice is that it's always different. Much like a backcountry skier intuits the good snow, a savvy ice climber is attuned to changes in ice and conditions, and the experience is always a little unique.
This weekend we had a classic case of 'Dust on Crust'. An Alberta Clipper dusted the region in 8 inches of very cold and dry crystals- that looked like good snow cover but in reality barely covered the hard frozen base underneath that had survived the last thaw. Roaring Brook Falls (~400' WI 3) and Chouinard's Gully (~400' WI 3) are two of the region's notable easy/moderate multi-pitch climbs. Not surprisingly, combining the two is a popular day out for our guests looking for good scenery, good mileage and good times.
On Sunday, despite being 'moderate' classics- these routes were engaging and required some work to clear and manage the snow as well as the dry brittle ice buried underneath. If you watch the video, Dan does a great job clearing the snow, making his tool placements accurate and efficient, keeping an eye on his feet when clearing the bulges, and embracing the flexibility of his leashless tools. (I'm also a big fan of those Grivel Quantum Techs.....)
We had a great weekend out, caught up on things since we had climbed last fall, got back up to speed on ice, and laid plans for some alpine climbing in the Tetons this summer. (As an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide, I'll be working through a guest guide arrangement with Exum Mountain Guides. If you want to train here with us and then climb in the Tetons together this summer, let me know!) - J
