Like spring skiing... but ice climbing!
After some stellar sunny days, a recent shift back into winter's clouds and wintry mix of preciptation ('snain & row' I've heard the 32 degree blend called) will slow down the slide into spring, but we turned a corner last week with the first warm weather at higher elevations too. After a stint of backcountry ski days, I changed gears again when Robert showed up for two days of late season ice climbing. While it's easy to call it quits on the ice season now- and we drove by a party enjoying sunny dry rock on Pitchoff Chimney Cliff's Pete's Farewell- it can actually be some of the most pleasant and enjoyable ice climbing of the season. I have fond memories of late-season ice every year about this time.
Certainly the hanging icicles and pillars are gone on all aspects now, but the thick flat flows on northern aspects remain. With the moderate temps, long days and crowd-free scene (we saw no other climbers actually), it's easy to cruise multiple pitches and develop a fast, efficient rythym on the plastic ice. After a day of wet ice in Multiplication Gully and Chapel Pond Canyon, Robert and I climbed five routes on the 'front four' ice climbs on Pitchoff's north side- Central Pillar, Tendonitis, Arm & Hammer and Moss Ghyll- a cluster of four, wide, full-ropelength flows- each with multiple lines in the WI 3-4 range. Actually Robert climbed all 5 routes twice - first seconding the pitch and removing any screws, and then immediately lowering back down and for another quick lap up, focusing on his technique and efficiency (and progressively testing out a recently rehab'ed knee- which apparently works just fine!)
Robert is a lifelong athlete and (not conicidentally) an academic with a background in kinesthiology too. He started the winter climbing season with Cloudsplitter back in December- focusing on developing efficient technique from the start and getting classic multi-pitch mileage with Emilie over two days. And clearly he's been applying himself since- in the gym and in the Catskills- note in the video how he consistently 'cycles' his tools- moving only one at a time in an efficient, steady upward progression of stable, 'tripod' positions. Admittedly, the ice that day was about as enjoyably soft and plastic as it gets, but Robert is showing great technique here too. This is what recreational ice climbing can and should be like!
And like all of us, Robert is into alpine climbing too- and looks at these stellar days cruising spring water-ice as a logical and enjoyable preamble to this summer's alpine adventures. We're working on this summer's schedule now, but if you have any interest in alpine or backcountry climbing this summer- here in the Adirondack High Peaks, in Washington's North Cascades (and Mt. Rainier), or even in the european Alps- then let us know soon, and we may be able to suggest a good objective(s) and connect you with compatible partner(s) to help share the experience and expenses with.
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Meanwhile Emilie sent some good pics from an AMGA SKi Guides Course she is taking in Utah right now, courtesy of the AMGA and Backcountry Access:
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On belay! Emilie working pedal hop turns. (AMGA Ski Guide Course, UT) |
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After a quick knot pass, Emilie exits a steep couloir in Utah's Wasatch mountains. (AMGA SGC, UT) |
