Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides

The wild sandstone peaks and canyons of Red Rocks National Conservation Area. And only a stone's throw from Vegas!

The leaves have long since fallen off the trees and it snowed a little every night last week. I know that I've been slacking on the blog updates since getting back from the desert, but it's safe to say now that we are deep into later fall and winter is just around the corner. Time to sharpen up those tools, crampons and ski edges and get ready for winter!

A few things to wrap up from the fall season and to start thinking about for this winter and even next summer:

First, Congratulations to Emilie! She passed the AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Exam in North Conway, NH in August. She is now one of only a select few AMGA Certified instructor/Guides in the Adirondacks, and has her sights set on eventual international (IFMGA) mountain guiding certification too. Even after a decade of guiding, she still raves about how the training and examination process has been a huge asset to her guiding skills and has definitely enabled her to offer much more professional and rewarding experiences with her guests and partners.

Vince, Jeff and Kip all cruising Frogland in cool and windy conditions.

 

Dale and Mark enjoying the endless and steep featured edges on 'Unimpeachable Groping.'

Second, I completed the next step toward IFMGA cert with the  Aspirant Rock Guide Course/Exam in Red Rocks (NV) in October where we focused on longer routes with teams of multiple climbers. Just as I found on the Rock Instructor and Alpine Guide courses and exams, it was an extremely valuable experience- reviewing essential skills, being tested on foundational skills such as technical rescues and movement on 5.10+ routes, and finally being examined guiding longer and more challenging objectives. Red Rocks is a great venue for long, featured climbs on beautiful sandstone- especially in the spring and fall- and features the paradoxical experience of wild and rugged canyons and mountains, just minutes from the hustle and bustle of Vegas. We hope to be able to offer a few weeks of guided climbing there next year (contingent upon limited permit spaces...TBA)

Dale livin' the dream.

 

John following the balls...

Surprise! Holds everywhere!

And finally, what's next? We're working on overhauling the website and schedule right now, so stay posted. Some upcoming highlights though:

Our winter season kicks off right after Thanksgiving. I just booked a few days of early season ice/alpine gully climbing over on Mt. Washington in NH for the Thanksgiving weekend. (November 28-29 if anyone is interested in joining us that weekend or in scheduling their own day(s) either before or after..contact us) This is probably the best place in the Northeast to get a jump on the winter climbing season - the access and terrain are hard to beat.

Steve working a scrappy mixed start at Poke-O-Moonshine.

We're usually climbing ice and mixed routes here in the Adirondacks by early December, and it's a bit of an early season climbing frenzy right on up to and through the New Year's holidays. Those prime weeks are starting to fill up, so give us a shout if you'd like to get some climbing in before or over the holidays.

Of course, the Mountaineer here in Keene Valley will be hosting our favored community climbing and skiing events again this season- Mountainfest is Jan. 16 & 17, 2010. As for backcountry skiing, the Mountaineer has been recognized as a select Dynafit Competence Center, and will be hosting several events- a Dynafit movie night on Dec. 19,  a small group Dynafit Ski Mountaineering Camp Feb. 6 & 7, 2010, and our annual Backcountry Skifest- with guided backcountry tours for all abilities and interests, on March 6 & 7. Suffice to say, Cloudsplitter guides are fully on board with Dynafit ski equipment. If you're into backcountry skiing and favor super light weight, absolutely superb efficiency and elegant mechanical design- then Dynafit gear is for you too!

Sun and snow on the Angel Slides.

And if you've already started dreaming about next summer's alpine climbing and skiing trips, while Brad mans the yurt in Keene Valley, Emilie and I will be out in the Northwest (Washington's North Cascades) for several months next summer- which opens the door to some of the country's best real alpine climbing:

Emilie is putting together an early-season desert cragging trip to Joshua Tree National Park in CA in early April (1-5, 2010). She has spent a lot of time there over the years and between the granite and the setting, thinks there's no better place to escape to the desert and get on some sunny rock in the spring.

A late June/early July trip (June 30- July 7) to the Alaska Range for alpine rock climbing in Little Switzerland (Pika Glacier) is in the works. One guest is already on board, so if you'd like to join us for the alpine climbing trip of a lifetime, please contact us for details.

Basecamp on the Pika Glacier below the Royal Tower.

For the duration of July and August then, I'll be available for private and semi-private guiding on North Cascades classics: Forbidden Peak's airy exposed alpine rock ridges, peak bagging high on the aptly-named Inspiration Glacier, Mt. Shuksan's picturesque and complex glaciers and ridges, Washington Pass' superb 'roadside' alpine granite and even a Mt. Rainier Summit Climb for those wanting a 'big mountain' experience. We're working on permitting and schedules right now, so please contact us if you'd like to learn more or discuss our options.

Elee and David livin' the dream on Shuksan's SE ridge.

Richard having fun in a crevasse, Inspiration Glacier.

Alex and Richard on Dorado Needle's NW ridge.

Until then- in the words of poet Robert Frost- 'Ice is nice and will suffice.' So bring on the snow and ice and let's get into winter!