Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides

A party behind us tops out on the Arete du Cosmiques with Mont Blanc du Tacul behind.

John, livin' the dream on top of Pyramid du Tacul, smack dab in the middle of the Haute Alpine du Mont Blanc,

Well (knock on wood) I have been incredibly blessed this summer, with stellar, record-breaking hot and sunny alpine weather out in Washington's North Cascades & Mt. Rainier (see archived post) in late July and early August, and then again most recently on a repeat alpine training trip to Chamonix Mont-Blanc, France.

The SE Arete of The Index, footsteps from the Flegere lift, is a classic intro to alpine cragging in the Chamonix Valley.

John cruising through a lap on the Index SE Arete.

One of the things I learned over the course of this summer's adventures: For high-quality alpine climbing- you can also go EAST young man! That's right, for a climber flying from the Northeast or Quebec, the European Alps are barely a longer flight away, (Montreal-Geneva is a straight shot) and once there, public transport is a cinch. From the Chamonix village itself there are mechanized lifts and telepheriques on each side of the valley- offering easy access to the picturesque alpine cragging in the Aguilles Rouge and the truly sublime high alpine experience on the many summits and tours across the Mont-Blanc Massif- a short 10,000' tram ride up to Aguille du Midi's summit station. Of course, Chamonix's reputation and rich history as a mountain town are legendary, and the culture of alpinism and mountain guding are inspirational and contagious. 

John gets a little extra quality crack climbing, just 'off route' on the East arete of the Pyramid du Tacul.

Down the Vallee Blanche towards the E Arete of the Pyramid du Tacul (Pointe Adolph Rey and Le Tour Ronde behind).

Excellent position and another stellar day on the Papillon Arete (Aguille du Peigne).

 My friend John, who has climbed in Chamonix several times over the years, invited me to join him and his family for ten days in later August and take the opportunity to round out my alpine resume on some more of the classic routes there. (I was actually there in June too- see archives). Robust high-pressure seemed to bless us there as well, so with the warm, sunny temps we focused on alpine rock and enjoyed eight great days of climbing- up high on the glaciers, down low in the valleys, right off the lifts and across icy glaciers. We climbed on both sides of the valley, on quartzite, on schist, on granite, on ridges, on slabs, up cracks, in boots, in crampons, in rock shoes, in approach shoes, in shorts and a t-shirt, in full layers, with packs, without packs, clipping bomber bolts, placing gear, french-freeing through steep roofs, free-climbig steep cracks, climbing through and around other parties...in restrospect, a LOT of diverse rock climbing. Combine the acess to quality alpine terrain with classy European resort style offerings in Chamonix, and it's downright recreational!

Passing a party via a pitch of clean granite flakes, low on the Papillon Arete.

Classic 'old-school' Chamonix multi-pitch alpine granite on Nabot Leon, Pilier Rouge, Aguille du Blatiere.

John, above the Col du Midi, cruising into the fourth belay and easier terrain ahead.

Morning sun on the Arete du Cosmiques, the Eperon and SE Pillar of the Aguill du Midi- a wealth of beautiful, golden alpine granite.

FORECAST for the FALL: what's next?

Now's the time to get out in the Adirondacks- especially the backcountry! Climb Wallface Mountain- NY state's highest, biggest, baddest wilderness cliff. September is the best month for backcountry climbing in the Adirondacks- like a one-day climb of the classic Diagonal Route (III 5.8) or less technical Case Route (II 5.3) September is always a frenzy of activity with the climax of the season. Please give us a call or email to schedule a peak season climb.

Bob tops out 900' off the deck on the uber-classic Diagonal.

Wallface Mountain, south end & Diagonal buttress.