Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides

Emilie tops out on 'Obaminable' p.1, Hayes Mt.

Tammy gets her lead climbing systems dialed in on top-rope.

Steve styles it into the sunshine.

This past week has been all about Transitions. Not just the weather, which has waffled between cold, very cold, very cold and windy. At least it's been fairly sunny and clear though, with a little bit more daylight every day. Transitions have been more about looking ahead to the future, starting with the rest of this winter season.

First, on January 20- Inaugeration Day, while Barack Obama was being sworn in as our new President, Emilie and I - on a rare day 'off'- joined a small crew of Adirondack locals (Jim, Tad, Joe and Tommy) for an exploratory visit to Hayes Mountain, down near Schroon Lake. Temps were cold- in the single digits- but the one hour ski tour in warmed us up and the sunny SE aspect kept our spirits (and the ice) up despite the temps. Each team took their own line and we were rewarded with three new ice routes, all @ a full two pitches long (~350 ft.). Emilie led the first pitch of a route we called 'Obaminable' - in memory of the day and the dry, white, sun-baked ice on the second pitch. Since then Hayes has seen a frenzy of activity, but once the initial rush dies down, there's lots of routes there for those who enjoy longer, challenging routes w/ a moderate approach and a true wilderness setting.

Tad follows Jim up 'Simple Gifts.' Obaminable joins the rising ice sheets high on the R.

Second, Tammy joined us again for a couple more days and we completed her transition as a new lead climber on ice, with a day of lead skills instruction and practice and a day of testing the limits and managing fatigue while pulling screws on steep ice. She's a long-time Gunks climber and lead climber on rock who set out this season to learn to climb ice with equal proficiency. We started a multi-day progression with a day of orientation to ice climbing, getting her equipment dialed in, practicing technique with games and movement drills and learning how to 'second' or follow a lead climber and remove protection. Then it was off to several days of multi-pitch mileage, on a variety of moderate terrain- ice and mixed, with a progression to more challenging routes. Now, after a day of practice lead climbing skills and a day of pushing the limits seconding steep ice- she's ready to get out and lead some on her own, saving her days climbing with us for 'trophy routes' and continuing skills education.

Tammy practices winter gear racking and screw placement techniques.

Tammy leaves the ramp for steep hooks on the Power Play pillar.

Tammy practices managing the pump while removing (several!) screws on Rhiannon's steep ice column.

And finally, completing the transition into a new year, as the snow in the backcountry has started to pile up and days are getting longer, we started our backcountry ski guiding programs for this winter! Steve, Joe and Kevin- all very avid tele skiers, snowboarders and mountain bikers at their local hills in Pennsylvania- joined us for a real backcountry ski tour in the High Peaks. It was a clear but cold day, so we avoided the exposed summits and open slide terrain and instead opted for a favorite tour down one of the many drainages near Marcy Dam. This tour included a good mix of rolling and uphill skinning that eventually rewarded us with a descent down 'natural snow and natural terrain' in an open, twisting drainage. Eventually we skied out onto a brook (well frozen thanks to recent cold temps) and back onto the trail for a fast schuss (slightly downhill!) the 2.5 miles back to the ADK Loj. Everyone had a great day, challenged by the terrain and conditions at times and places, but also rewarded with moments of satisfying, effortless turns as it all came together. That is what 'ski touring' is all about- and it was a great way to transition into our backcountry season!

Steve and Joe enjoy skiing uphill too!

Steve, basking in the glow.

Kevin chases the sun.

Steve showing a little old-school tele style.

Joe gets excited as the drainage opens up below him.

Steve and Kevin, ready to lay down some turns.