Power Play!
One of the real benefits of living in a small mountain town- and one of the reasons we live here- is the small mountain community. Many of our friends moved here specifically for the climbing and skiing. Not surprisingly, several are local guides too and are eager to get out and start the season before the holiday rush kicks in and everyone is busy working.
It's also the time of year for 'first ascents' - meaning the 'first' climb of the season. As a guide on his/her home turf, you can get quite used to the 'classic' routes by midseason- with holds and stances kicked into the ice, but the first climb of the season (or maybe after a good thaw/freeze cycle) is the real deal. I equate it to first-tracks when backcountry skiing. It's a fresh pallete to work with. It also means the climbing is often more challenging, with thin ice and fragile features yet to be 'cleaned', protection uncertain and the sequence of moves still a puzzle to be solved. And thus, that much more rewarding.
Some locals have their favorite 'first' route too- one they take as a point of personal pride to be the 'first' of the season to climb. Power Play (WI5, 200') is 'that route' for local climber/guide Matt Horner. And yesterday he and Emilie got their first 'first' of the season in, center stage at Chapel Pond:
