Alpine climbing in the North Cascades
Summer 2010
◦ The Emmon's Glacier is the classic standard big-mountain glacier route on the eastern side of the mountain, climbing up the Interglacier to summit from a 'high camp' at Camp Sherman / Emmon's Flats. This is a very physical but intermediate level climb, requiring fitness, glacier travel and snow climbing skills. July- early August.
◦ The Kautz Glacier is another, slightly less popular and more difficult, big-mountain glacier route on the southern side of the mountain, approaching up big snowfields to a high camp below the Kautz ice cliff and a crux ice ramp onto the upper glacier. This is an intermediate-plus level climb, requiring fitness, glacier travel and moderate technical snow and ice climbing skills. July- early August.
◦ The Ptarmigan Ridge is a classic 'north face' route, neighboring the more popular Liberty Ridge and requires a lengthy approach, some sustained technical climbing at altitude, and a traverse up and over the summit. This is an ambitious, advanced climb, requiring prior high alpine experience, strong fitness, glacier travel and technical ice and mixed skills. Mid-July only.
✦ Alpine Snow & Ice: Mt. Baker (10,778') & Mt. Shuksan (9,127')

◦ Mt. Baker's North Ridge is a classic big-mountain alpine ice route following a glaciated ridge crest up and over the summit ice cap. This is an advanced route, requiring fitness, glacier travel and technical alpine snow and ice skills. July-August.
◦ Mt. Shuksan, North Face, SE Ridge, Fisher Chimneys- An extremely aesthetic mountain with options for several classic alpine mixed snow, ice and rock routes, some requiring a traverse up and over the summit. These are intermediate to advanced routes requiring fitness, glacier travel, technical alpine rock, snow and ice skills. July-August.
✦Alpine climbing in North Cascades National Park


◦ Eldorado Peaks and the Inspiration Glacier- An introduction to alpine mountaineering on glacier, snow and rock on a spectacular glaciated plateau. This a good introduction to alpine climbing in the North Cascades, requiring fitness, glacier travel and basic climbing skills.
◦ Forbidden Peak and Boston Basin- The classic (and popular) North Cascades alpine climbs, with options: warm-up routes on Sahale and Sharkfin Tower, an ascent of Forbidden's iconic West Ridge, a more challenging traverse ascending via the East Ridge, or a full traverse of the North Ridge (with high bivouac.) These are intermediate to advanced climbs requiring fitness, glacier travel, and technical rock and alpine/ ice climbing skills.
◦ Alpine rock in the Marble Creek Cirque- With a long approach to a high basecamp, this is a unique (and ambitious) opportunity to climb some of the longer and less-traveled alpine rock routes on Eldorado Peak, Dorado Needle and Early Morning Spire. These are major alpine rock routes requiring long days, fitness, glacier travel and technical rock and alpine/ ice climbing skills.


✦ Alpine Rock in Washington Pass: The Liberty Bell group, Silver Star & the Wine Spires

Quite possibly the best 'roadside' alpine rock venue in the country. The North Cascades Scenic Hwy 20 through Washington Pass provides easy access to day climbs in the Liberty Bell group and multi-day climbs on the Silver Star Glacier and the Wine Spires. With it's alpine granite, ease of access and more favorable weather east of the range, Washington Pass is a very popular place to climb offering 'european style' (day) climbs from comfortable accommodations in the valley- i.e. more climbing, less hiking!
Climbers are responsible for their own choice of accommodations. The nearby towns and communities of Mazama and Winthrop host a spectrum of options (starting with simple Forest Service campgrounds below the Pass to B&B style / bunkhouse lodging at North Cascades Basecamp in Mazama to the 5 star Sun Mountain Lodge in Winthrop- and everything in between.)
Commercial use is heavily regulated by the Forest Service in Washington Pass. Cloudsplitter is very pleased to be working by arrangement with North Cascades Mountain Guides in Mazama for all Washington Pass programs. These programs are booked through NCMG but employ Cloudsplitter guides.
RATES & LOGISTICS
Private guiding with Cloudsplitter guides is available in 4-6 day blocks each week, allowing teams the flexibility to take best advantage of varying objectives and local conditions each day.
1:1 = $ 325 / day
2:1 = $ 225 / day
*Programs in the Washington Pass area are reserved through North Cascades Mountain Guides and subject to NCMG rates and policies.
The per-diem Cloudsplitter guide's rate Includes all on-mountain guiding, use of team climbing equipment as necesary (ropes, tents, stoves, etc), dehydrated dinners, and carpooling in the guide's personal vehicle for transportation to/from SEA.
The rate does not include (on-mountain) breakfasts & lunch/snacks, all (off-mountain) meals & incidental expenses, and (off-mountain) accommodations (campground or hotel/motel), individual 'climber fees' (MRNP) and a pro-rated share of any additional permit/ commercial use authorization fees (MRNP, NCNP) incurred by Cloudsplitter Mountain Guides for legal access.
Itineraries are flexible (subject to availability), but scheduling is strongly encouraged in the following Monday - Saturday 'blocks.' (Actual itineraries may also be subject to respective permitting and scheduling arrangements, and may vary in the field to take advantage of weather & conditions.):
July 19- 24
July 26 - 31
August 2 -7
August 9 - 14
August 16- 21
August 23- 28
August 30 - September 4
September 6 - 10
A 50% deposit is required to make a reservation, with the balance due 4 weeks prior to the scheduled date. Cancellations made less than 4 weeks from the reservation date are refundable- less 25% for all permitting fees incurred. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 2 weeks prior to a reservation date.
I hope you can join us out in the Alpine this summer!
Please contact Jesse@cloudsplitterguides.com for more information or to make a reservation.
