Saturday, August 28th 2010
An absolutely stellar late summer day on Mt. Shuksan (North Cascades, WA)
I'm out in Washington's North Cascades- working various alpine guiding programs over the last few weeks and now training with Emilie and fellow AMGA Aspirant guides for an upcoming final AMGA Alpine Guide exam. Craig was out visiting family in Portland and joined me for a climb of Mt. Shuksan via the super classic Fisher Chimneys and SE summit ridge. I've climbed it before (it is one of the '50 Classic Climbs' in North America- and the 'most photographed mountain' in the lower 48)- but I can't imagine I'll ever get a nicer day than this one: a pleasant night, full moon over Mt. Baker as we climbed the chimneys into the sunrise, great glacier conditions due to late spring snowfalls, views all the way south to Rainier, north to Garibaldi and west to Vancouver Island, and a great partner and teammate. This is what alpine climbing is all about! - JW
Sunday, August 8th 2010
Climbing is for Girls!
Just by chance, I've spent the past week climbing only with women...which means lots of fun and lots of good routes! While I enjoy climbing with both men and women, I always find it interesting to see the difference in style and technique; with a lower center of gravity, women tend to be balanced, flexible, and smooth climbers, while men are often able to muscle through moves with strength that I can only wish for.
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The scenic view of Chapel Pond from Tilman's Arete. |
The ladies I've climbed with this past week have been a mix of beginner to advanced, yet all exhibit a natural ability on rock. With a little coaching, improvement happened quickly and we were able to climb some of the nicest routes around ranging from single pitch climbs at King Phillips Spring Wall to long routes on the recently re-opened Upper Washbowl.
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Carolyn stems Partition, Upper Wasbowl. |
But fun climbing with other women doesn't have to happen by chance! If you're a woman climber- or know someone who is- then check out the "Girly Gatherings" that we'll be offering here in Keene Valley next year in collaboration with the ladies at Chicks with Picks and Sterling Rope. This all women's climbing weekend is a great opportunity for east coast ladies to get together and climb some of the best rock in the Adirondacks in a fun, supportive, and low-key atmosphere. Clinics are offered for all abilities whether you've never climbed before or whether you climb all the time and want a little more expertise. We'll keep you posted as to next year's date for this fun weekend!
-- Emilie
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Katie on the wide crack at Owl's Head. |
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Andrea at the top of Quadraphenia's third pitch. |
